Burke and Wills — A lavish expedition that starved at a stocked depot

The Victorian Exploring Expedition set out from Melbourne on 20 August 1860 to make the first south-to-north crossing of Australia, from the southern colonies to the Gulf of Carpentaria, under Robert O’Hara Burke, a police superintendent with no exploration experience, and the surveyor and astronomer William John Wills. It was the most lavishly equipped expedition Australia had then mounted — roughly £57,000, nineteen men, twenty-six camels, twenty-three horses, and tonnes of supplies — and it failed not for want of provisions but through command, judgement and a fatal indifference to the people who knew the country.

Burke drove the party forward by repeatedly splitting it and stripping it down for speed. A four-man forward team — Burke, Wills, John King and Charley Gray — reached the Gulf country in February 1861 and turned back. Gray died on the return. The three survivors staggered into the Cooper Creek depot on the evening of 21 April 1861 to find it abandoned; the depot party under William Brahe, after waiting more than four months, had ridden out that same day, missing them by roughly nine hours. The cached supplies left at the marked “Dig Tree” were not enough to save them.

Burke and Wills died near Cooper Creek around late June or early July 1861 of starvation and exhaustion, their decline hastened by eating nardoo, an aquatic fern whose seed is toxic unless processed. Only John King lived, because the Yandruwandha people — on whose Country the men died — fed him fish and properly prepared nardoo, sheltered him, and kept him alive for some three months until a relief party reached him on 15 September 1861. The expedition is remembered in Australia as a heroic tragedy; the more accurate account is of preventable mismanagement survived only through Aboriginal generosity that the colonial mythology long erased.

The Donner Party — A shortcut that stranded a wagon train to die in the snow

The Donner Party was a group of roughly 87 American emigrants — families and hired hands travelling in ox-drawn wagons — bound for California in 1846 under the nominal leadership of the Illinois farmer George Donner and the businessman James Frazier Reed. Lured off the established trail onto an untested “shortcut,” they reached the Sierra Nevada too late in the season and were trapped by early snow near Truckee Lake (now Donner Lake) in the first days of November 1846. They remained snowbound for some four months. Of the roughly 87 who set out, about 39 died of starvation, cold and exhaustion, and the survivors — split between two camps and a doomed escape party — resorted to eating the bodies of the dead.

The catastrophe was made by decisions, not weather alone. The party’s fate was sealed when it adopted the “Hastings Cutoff,” a route promoted by Lansford Hastings in a guidebook he had never fully travelled. Far from saving distance, the cutoff added an estimated 125 miles, wrecked the wagons in the Wasatch Range and the Great Salt Lake Desert, killed oxen, and consumed the weeks of margin the party needed to clear the mountains before winter. By the time they reached the Sierra crest, the first blizzard had closed the pass.

Through the winter the emigrants sheltered in three crude cabins at the lake and in tents at Alder Creek, six miles back, where the Donner families had been forced to halt. As food ran out — first the cattle, then dogs, then boiled hides — people began to die. On 16 December 1846 a party of seventeen, soon called the “Forlorn Hope,” set out on improvised snowshoes for help; of the fifteen who pressed on, eight died, their bodies eaten by the survivors, and two Miwok guides, Luis and Salvador, were shot for food. Seven reached the Sacramento Valley after about a month and raised the alarm. Four relief parties struggled up between February and April 1847; the last survivor, Lewis Keseberg, was brought out around 21 April. Two-thirds of the women and children lived; only about a third of the men did.

Ludwig Leichhardt — A famed explorer who walked into silence

In the autumn of 1848 the Prussian-born naturalist Ludwig Leichhardt led a party of seven men out of the Darling Downs of eastern Australia, intending to cross the continent from the Condamine River in Queensland to the Swan River on the far west coast — a traverse of perhaps 5,000 to 6,000 kilometres through country no European had seen. The party was last sighted on 3 April 1848 at Allan Macpherson’s Cogoon station, near present-day Roma. Leichhardt, his four European companions, his two Aboriginal guides, and his herd of livestock then rode west and were never reliably seen again. No bodies, no graves, no camp with human remains, and no confirmed relic of the men themselves has ever been found. The disappearance is the most enduring unsolved case in the history of Australian exploration.

Leichhardt was not a novice. His first expedition of 1844–45 had carried him and his companions nearly 4,800 kilometres overland from Jimbour, on the Darling Downs, to the British outpost at Port Essington on the northern coast, arriving on 17 December 1845 after the party had long been given up for dead. That journey made him a celebrity in Sydney and across the colonies. A second attempt, begun in December 1846, was a failure: heavy rain, malarial fever and near-famine forced the party back after roughly 800 kilometres and some five months. The 1848 expedition was his third venture and his most ambitious — and the one from which no member returned to tell what happened.

The party comprised Leichhardt himself; four Europeans — Adolph Classen, Arthur Hentig, Donald Stuart and Thomas Hands; and two Aboriginal guides from the Port Stephens district, Wommai and Billy Bombat, whose knowledge of country and skill in finding water and game would have been the expedition’s most valuable asset. They drove seven horses, twenty mules and fifty bullocks, a herd intended to feed the men over a journey of many months. Their fate is unknown. The most plausible reconstructions, drawn from scattered marked trees and a single authenticated relic, hold that the party penetrated deep into the continent — possibly as far as the desert country near the Western Australian border — before perishing of thirst, starvation, flood, disease or conflict, in some combination the record cannot resolve.

Because nothing was witnessed and nothing recovered, this is a dossier about an absence. What can be stated with confidence is narrow: the route attempted, the men who attempted it, the date they were last seen, and the long failure of every search to find them.

Mungo Park’s Second Niger Expedition — Forty men sent to trace a river; nearly all died

In 1805 the Scottish surgeon and explorer Mungo Park led a British government expedition of roughly forty Europeans inland from the Gambia to trace the course of the River Niger to its end. Within a few months almost the entire party was dead. By the time Park reached the Niger at Bamako in mid-August 1805, only eleven of the Europeans were still alive; the rest had died of malaria and dysentery on the march. By the time he built a boat and set off down the river from Sansanding on 19 November 1805, the European company had shrunk to Park himself, one army officer, three soldiers and a few others. Park drowned at the Bussa rapids, on the Niger in what is now Nigeria, in about 1806, when his boat was attacked by people on the riverbanks and the men leapt into the water to escape. None of the Europeans who entered the boat survived; only an African guide, Amadi Fatouma, lived to carry the story out.

The expedition was the second time Park had gone to the Niger. His first journey, of 1795–97, had been a privately backed reconnaissance for the African Association; he had reached the river at Ségou in July 1796, the first European known to have seen it there, and returned to write a celebrated account. That success persuaded the British government to mount the far larger venture of 1805 — a column of soldiers and artificers commissioned to follow the Niger downstream and settle the geographical question of where it went. The difference between the two journeys was fatal: the small, lightly equipped first expedition had given Park the prestige that justified the second, while the second’s size, its soldiers and its timing turned it into a death march.

The decisive error was the calendar. The party left the coast late and pushed inland into the West African rainy season, the deadliest time of year for malaria, with no understanding of how the disease was transmitted and no effective protection against it. Men sickened and died at a catastrophic rate, the column melting away stage by stage until barely a tenth of it remained. Park pressed on regardless, converting the survivors’ situation into an all-or-nothing dash down the river. The attempt ended in violence at a rapids he could not pass, and with it the lives of nearly all the men he had led inland. The expedition is remembered as one of the costliest in the history of African exploration measured against the size of the party — a venture in which the science of geography advanced barely at all, while almost everyone who set out died.

The Emin Pasha Relief Expedition — A relief march that became a scandal of atrocity

The Emin Pasha Relief Expedition was a British-organized venture of 1886–89, led by Henry Morton Stanley, to march across central Africa and bring out Emin Pasha — the German-born governor of Egypt’s Equatoria province, isolated near Lake Albert after the Mahdist revolt cut him off from the north. Stanley approached not from the east coast but up the Congo, a far longer route, and in June 1887 divided his force of nearly 800 men on the Aruwimi River. He pushed ahead with an Advance Column through the Ituri rainforest and left a Rear Column of about 271 men at a camp called Yambuya, under Major Edmund Barttelot, to wait for porters promised by the slave-trader Tippu Tip and then follow. The Rear Column was not relieved in time and disintegrated. When Stanley returned to it at Banalya in August 1888, more than half the men were dead or had deserted, its officers were dead, dying, invalided or gone, and accounts of starvation, savage floggings and a recorded atrocity against an enslaved African girl had begun to spread.

The expedition’s professed purpose — relief — sat uneasily with its conduct. It was a private enterprise of the Scramble for Africa, funded by a committee under the shipowner William Mackinnon, entangled with King Leopold II’s Congo Free State and British commercial ambitions in East Africa, and it moved through the lands and lives of central African peoples as if they existed only to be used. The route through the Congo basin and the Ituri forest was murderous: of the 389 men of the Advance Column who left Yambuya, only 169 reached Lake Albert alive. The Rear Column’s fate was worse in character if not in raw numbers, because what destroyed it was not only disease and hunger but the cruelty of its own command.

The dead must be counted plainly, and most were African: the Zanzibari, Sudanese and Manyema porters who died of starvation and untreated illness, the men flogged to death on Barttelot’s orders, and above all the enslaved girl whom the naturalist James Sligo Jameson paid to have killed and eaten so that he could sketch it. Stanley did reach Emin Pasha and brought survivors to the east coast in 1889, but the venture is remembered less for that than for the Rear Column, an episode that stands as a case study in how an imperial expedition can become an engine of the suffering it claims to relieve.

Alexander Gordon Laing — First to reach Timbuktu, murdered days after leaving it

Major Alexander Gordon Laing, a Scottish army officer in his early thirties, became in August 1826 the first European known to have reached Timbuktu by an overland crossing of the Sahara, only to be murdered roughly five weeks later on the desert track north of the city, his journals never recovered. He had left the North African coast at Tripoli in July 1825 and crossed some 2,650 miles of desert before entering the fabled town on 18 August 1826.

Laing’s reward for the achievement was death. He stayed in Timbuktu about five weeks, gathering geographical and commercial notes, then left on 24 September 1826 to travel onward. Within two or three days, on the caravan track near Araouane, north of Timbuktu, he was killed by men of his own Arab escort. Contemporary accounts hold that he was strangled or beheaded; his servant survived to carry word of the killing, but Laing’s papers, maps and journals disappeared and were never found.

The expedition was driven as much by Anglo-French competition as by science: Timbuktu had become a symbol, and reaching it first was a prize of empire. Laing won the race in fact but not in lasting credit. He died before he could publish a word, and two years later the Frenchman René Caillié reached Timbuktu, returned alive, and claimed the geographical prize and the public fame. The loss of Laing’s papers fed a bitter dispute between his father-in-law, the British consul at Tripoli, and the French, who were accused without evidence of procuring the lost journals. What survives of the first European visit to Timbuktu is mostly a handful of letters posted before the final, fatal stretch.

Friedrich Hornemann — Crossed the Sahara, then vanished into the Sudan

Friedrich Konrad Hornemann, a young German theology student sponsored by Britain’s African Association, became in 1798 the first modern European known to cross the northeastern Sahara, travelling in disguise from Cairo to the Fezzan in present-day Libya. He then pressed on alone toward the Niger and disappeared into the interior of the central Sudan, dying of disease at the town of Bokane in the Nupe country — now in northern Nigeria — around February 1801, at about twenty-eight. No European witnessed his end, and confirmation of his fate did not reach the outside world for years.

Born in Hildesheim in 1772 and trained at Göttingen, Hornemann offered himself to the African Association in 1796 and was equipped to attempt the unsolved geographical problem of the age: the course and termination of the Niger River. He reached Cairo, learned Arabic and the manners of a Muslim traveller, and on 5 September 1798 joined a returning pilgrim caravan, disguised under the name Yusuf. He crossed the desert by way of the Siwa oasis and reached Murzuk in the Fezzan on 17 November 1798. From there he travelled to Tripoli and sent his journals back to London — the one substantial record of his work that survives.

Then he turned south, back into the desert and beyond the edge of European knowledge, and the documented trail ends. He is reported to have travelled with the Bornu caravan, reached the Hausa country, and pushed on toward the Niger before sickening and dying at Bokane in Nupe. Because he travelled alone among local caravans, with no European companion left alive to report, the details of his death are thin and second-hand: a notice that reached Murzuk only in 1819 recorded that the traveller had gone to “Noofy” (Nupe) and died there. He had probably come within reach of solving the Niger question; the answer, like the man, was lost in the interior.

Heinrich Barth — The scholar who survived the Sahara by respecting it

Heinrich Barth, a German scholar attached to a British-sponsored expedition, crossed and recrossed the Sahara and the central Sudan between 1850 and 1855, outlived both of his European companions, reached Timbuktu and returned alive — bringing home one of the most valuable records of inner Africa ever produced by a nineteenth-century traveller. Where almost every contemporary in this case file died, Barth survived a five-year journey of some 10,000 to 12,000 miles, and he survived it not by force or luck but by preparation, discipline, and a working respect for the peoples whose country he crossed.

Born in Hamburg in 1821 and trained as a classical scholar and linguist, Barth set out from Tripoli early in 1850 with the British government expedition led by James Richardson, alongside a second German, the astronomer Adolf Overweg. Both leaders died of disease — Richardson in March 1851, Overweg in September 1852 — leaving Barth to carry the mission on alone. He explored the country around Lake Chad, mapped the upper Benue, and pushed west to Timbuktu, which he reached on 7 September 1853.

Barth’s survival turned on the things triumphalist exploration usually disdained. He spoke Arabic fluently and learned Hausa, Kanuri, Fulani and other African languages; he compiled vocabularies for some forty tongues; he was the first European to take the oral traditions of the Sudanic peoples seriously as historical sources, and he described the cultures he passed through with respect rather than contempt. In Timbuktu, where a non-Muslim European faced execution, his life was saved by the protection of the Tuareg-Arab scholar and spiritual leader Sheikh Ahmad al-Bakkay al-Kunti, who sheltered him in his own house against those who wanted him killed. Barth returned to Europe in September 1855 and published a vast, five-volume record of the journey. He died, comparatively unrewarded and under-appreciated in his lifetime, in Berlin in 1865. The verdict here is survival — and the mechanism of that survival is the lesson the rest of the file lacks.

The Calvert Expedition — A side trip into the dunes that two men never returned from

The Calvert Scientific Exploring Expedition set out from Mullewa, Western Australia, on 13 June 1896 to fill in the last blank spaces on the colony’s map, crossing the Great Sandy Desert toward the Fitzroy River in the Kimberley. It was a camel survey of eight men under the surveyor Lawrence Allen Wells, financed by the London mining promoter Albert Frederick Calvert and conducted under the South Australian Branch of the Royal Geographical Society of Australasia. Two of the eight died in the desert: Charles Frederick Wells, the leader’s cousin and second-in-command, and George Lindsay Jones, the young mineralogist and photographer.

The deaths followed a decision to divide the party in waterless country. By October 1896 the expedition was deep in the dunes, its camels sickening on poisonous plants and water nearly impossible to find. From a camp near a soak the party called Separation Well, Charles Wells and Jones rode off on a “flying trip” to the north-west to extend the survey, intending to rejoin the main column at the next watering point. The two parties never met again. The main body reached the Fitzroy on the Derby track in early November; Wells and Jones, unable to find water and with their camels failing, turned back to follow the main party’s tracks and died of heat and thirst on or about 21 November 1896.

Their fate was not known for half a year. Lawrence Wells mounted repeated searches, and the Western Australian government sent the surveyor William Rudall, who relied on an Aboriginal tracker named Cherry and quartered some 60,000 square kilometres of desert without finding them. The mummified bodies were found at last on 27 May 1897, about 26 kilometres south-west of Joanna Spring, by a recovery party that included two Aboriginal trackers and the Afghan cameleer Dervish Bejah. Jones’s diary, recovered with the remains, recorded the dwindling water, the loss of the camels, and the men’s last failed search for a soak. The geographical results were real; so was the cost, and a colonial inquiry later cleared Lawrence Wells of blame for the separation that killed two of his men.